Billiard HQ

Snooker tables, what you need to know

2008-11-28T11:33:00.000+07:00

Snooker is one of the great games, relaxing, requiring some skill but not too strenuous. Having a snooker room in your home is something to aspire to, at least for men. However you do need a large room for the 12-foot full-blown version. The good news is you can get smaller tables too, starting at 7 foot. They still have the same slate bed and leather pockets so they last forever and still have that classic wood frame. The 7 foot and 8 foot versions only have 10 reds on the table so the table doesn't get overcrowded with balls, but apart from that its almost as good as the real thing.

If you are thinking of buying a snooker table, first check the room size required. As a general rule of thumb, add 10 feet to each dimension to find out what room size you need. The 12-foot table for example requires a room size of 22 feet by 16 feet to allow for a clean cue action all around the table. The cues are normally 57 inches in length. So for a 7-foot table you need a room of 17 feet by 10 foot 6 inches. (A snooker table is always twice as long as it is wide)

When it comes to which one to buy, bear in mind that the actual playing surface is virtually the same on all snooker tables. The price you pay for a table is largely determined by the leg design and wood chosen. Snooker tables can be crafted from solid wood like ash or mahogany or built from strong plywood and covered in veneer. The tables made from the solid wood are stained to give it the colour you want whilst the veneered type have the correct colour of veneer applied and are less expensive. Also the leg design is also a factor in the cost. A complicated design is more difficult to make and so more expensive.

The classic 12 foot snooker table has 8 legs whereas the smaller types like the 7 or 8 ft have 4 legs and the 9 and 10 ft sizes have 6 legs. The weight of a big 12-foot table is almost 1 ton and generally the weight of a snooker table is the equivalent weight of 2 men per leg. So a 4-leg table is half a ton up to the full ton for an 8 leg table.

Most of the weight of a snooker table is in the slate of course. The thickness of the slate is usually 1 inch up to 1-¾ inches for the tournament tables. The smaller tables usually have a single piece of slate for tables up to 8 feet. Those pieces of slate are very heavy and would need 3 guys to lift it, and the bigger tables have their slate cut into 3 or 5 pieces so the slate can be lifted and then assembled at the customers house. This is why snooker tables should be professionally installed.

When the snooker table is put together, the frame is assembled first and that has large wooden cross members to put the slate on. The slate is the put onto the frame and if the slate is in separate pieces they are aligned to provide a perfectly flat surface so the gap between the individual pieces is virtually non-existent. The cloth is then stretched over the slate and stapled to the frame to keep the cloth taught. The cushions which already have the rubber and cloth prepared, are then bolted to the frame. The pockets are made from metal and leather are screwed into the side rails last of all.

So if you are thinking of buying a snooker table, first determine what size table will fit in your room and then decide what colour wood would be best in your room from light coloured ash to the dark mahogany. The weight of the table is spread between lots of legs and a standard floor type is usually quite sufficient. Then think of what it would be like to have your own snooker table, the look and feel of it, and enjoy.

Article Source: http://www.freeforallarticles.com

Halloween Costumes

2008-08-24T11:41:00.000+07:00

It has been quite a while since my last post. I had very busy weeks, my relation wedding, manage my café, going to a tour to bromo…What a weeks. I have a 3 days opened to relax, so I can do whatever I want. I heard that next month is going to be a party on my favorite pool lounge. On 31 October will be a Halloween party and restricted to member only. This is going to be fun. Member who wants to join the party must be wearing a costume, what a crazy idea, how do we going to be playing billiard with complicated costume? But I think that are the best part and I’m looking forward to watch this.

The committee said they have estimated 200 people will come to party. Wow, crowded indeed. They also said about score girls and sexy dancers will be wears a costume too. This is great; the best thing that guys will only found on the party is the girls. Sexy girl will just wandering between us, this is hunting time, maybe some of them still single. Anyway, I can guarantee 100 % about the girls, they just being crazy inside the party. Most of them will wear Adult Halloween costumes and sexier is better. We are the witnesses of the fashion innovation that girls has. I couldn’t imagine any further about it, just wait for the day. My team decided to wear a uniform costume, from our high school uniform. These costumes are unique enough and its maneuverability is comfort enough to move freely.

The party committee also said about the costume safety, because the party will be crowded they afraid they hard to evacuate the injured one. My team’s uniform is safe enough so that wouldn’t be a problem. They also make a exhibition match just to fun between the team. The party is going to be all night long.

How about your Halloween party? Have you planned on it about your costume? Don’t forget, the Halloween is near…

The Most Common Mistakes

2008-07-28T23:20:00.000+07:00

BRIDGE
Too loose of the bridge hand, STEADY, STRONG but RELAX
WARM UP STROKES
Not enough warm up strokes prior to stiking the cue ball. Align your stroke, dont take too much warm up strokes by it will make your shot blur.
FOLLOW THROUGH
Moving prior to the completion of the stroke.
LEVEL STROKE
The butt of the cue being to high during the entire stroke.
PLAYING SAFE
Always think 10 second forward. Imagine what happened if your shot missed.
MENTAL
Just play the balls. Being intimidated is the last thing you one to suffer.
CUE STROKE
Getting position for the next shot is determined by the angle you have on the object ball and striking the cue ball high, low or center.
CUE TIP
Not roughing up the tip often enough
CHALK
Forgetting to chalk up frequently.
PRACTICE
Practice these tips every time you play, even in practice time.

Ball in Hand Situation

2008-07-10T23:29:00.001+07:00

Ball in hand is one of the most player will avoid, consider it as
devastating penalty. When it combined with three rules row, it will
costs you much, often everything. The advantages is you can create a
perfect planning to pocket a 9 ball, and it will ruin our opponent
strategy. But think smart, be creative, it isn't just pocketing the
ball, mind trick, mental training will have their part also. This is a
few tips when you have a ball in hand :

When it comes to have a freedom to place the cue anywhere on the
table, people tends to think offense. Never put the defense out of
circle. Such freedom can also you to bury the cue anyway.
In some condition you must consider to play safe. If you have a
cluster that must be broken, think to play safe but breaks up the
cluster. It may or it may not snook the opponent.
Practice a 'stun run-through'. Hit the object ball full in the
face while striking the cue ball just slightly above center. The result
is that the object ball travels a long way and the cue ball creeps
forward only a few inches. very efficient in safety play.
When the nine is near the pocket, strategy will dramatically
changes. Players will tend to concentrate on pocketing the nine with a
combo. Try to make the opponent a run out than easy combo for nine.
(Nine ball)
In eight ball don't just follow the heat, don't try to run out
unless you are sure whit it. If your have 2 left balls and your
opponent still has 6, the disadvantages will be upon you. More ball
will interfere your balls to be pocketed.

Predator Cues Special Edition - Congo 18

2008-06-14T01:07:00.004+07:00

Woods from the heart of Africa, artistry from the soul of Samsara, technology from the mind of Predator. Only 100 each of Congo 18 and Congo 19 will be expertly crafted by legendary Samsara. Rare tribal art meets the height of advanced engineering. This could get wild.

The Predator Special Edition Congo 18 features:

Wavy Bubinga Forearm

Instaria inlayed on the butt sleeve with Bubinga

Ebony & Maple Outlines

Black Leather Wrap

314 2nd Generation shaft - 29"

Tiger Everest Tip

Uni-Loc Joint.

Online Pool

2008-05-08T12:05:00.003+07:00

Billiard or pool is a game which requires trained mental and skill. You can play billiard by yourself of course, to improve your skill, practice shots, so you can predict the cue ball movements precisely.Practice 9 ball, 8 ball or snooker.

But, nothing will compare a match versus other player for a mental training. Pressure, nervousness, wandering thoughts will be haunting every amateur players, sometime even the pros can be affected. Go to lounge or Pool centre to practice versus another player. That is undoubtly will increase your performance. Plays against player from all over the world is a new trend. By playing online billiard with player from another countries you will experience exitement and more chalengging opponent.

BilliardMagic.com is one of the service provider for billiard online. Very easy to apply, choose your username, download the software, follow a simple instruction and you are ready to match.

BilliardMagic.com billiard software is a multi language game that allows everyone from everywhere to enjoy a broad range of billiard games, including 8 ball, 9 ball and snooker while meeting new people from all over the world.
Their support centre will provide technical support for you in no time. Check BilliardMagic.com to further billiard experience.

Always aim high.

Important Shot Part 2

2008-04-05T22:51:00.002+07:00

The long stop shot. A very important shot in pool and also a good indication to you, the player, if your aiming is straight and if you can use draw properly. On top of that it also tests your speed control / judgement.

Don't take a shot like this lightly, if you can master this, then shorter distances will be a piece of pie. The object is to have the cue-ball stop dead in it's track when it makes contact with the object ball. That means no stun action in either direction, no draw action bringing the cue-ball back towards you and definetly no follow action which could potentially cause you to scratch.

The 10 Most Common Pool Mistakes

2008-03-03T18:49:00.004+07:00

#1. BRIDGE
Too lax of the bridge hand, MUST BE FIRM

#2. WARM UP STROKES
Not enough hot upward strokes prior to stiking the clue baseball, these strokes produce looseness and closing alignment.

#3. FOLLOW THROUGH
Moving prior to the closing of the shot.

#4. LEVEL STROKE
The ass of the clue being to higher during the whole shot.

#5. PLAYING SAFE
Never kill a difficult stroke without the opportunity of a payoff, if stance and stroke are difficult, PLAY SAFE.

#6. MENTAL
Being intimidated by the importance of the match or the opposition, just beat the balls.

#7. CUE STROKE
Getting stance for the next stroke is determined by the slant you have on the target baseball and striking the clue baseball higher, reduced or center.

#8. CUE TIP
Not roughing upward the hint frequently sufficient, Will Prevent Miscues.

#9. CHALK
Forgetting to chalk upward often.

#10. PRACTICE
Practice these tips every moment you play.

Important Shots 2

2008-02-24T20:30:00.003+07:00

Great positioning is key to great runs. To keep the cue-ball going foward after contacting the object ball and then the rail, apply some follow with inside english. Just using follow won't be enough because some extra action is needed off the rail to push the cue-ball further down table, giving you an easier angle on the next shot.
Adjust your aim on the first object ball since you are using some left english. A thinner cut is needed than if you were to use just follow or center.

You should have known....(2)

2008-02-23T07:36:00.001+07:00

Shape Your Tip

Predator research has clearly shown that a dime radius (or shape of a dime) will produce 5 percent to 10 percent less cue ball deflection than the more commonly used nickel shape. The cue ball deflection is reduced because the dime radius centralizes the hit to the center, or strong part, of the shaft.

What burnishing does for your shaft

The purpose of burnishing your shaft is to smooth and seal the wood. The more you burnish, the better the finish and, the slicker and more moisture resistant your shaft becomes. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your shaft. It causes the grain to raise and your shaft to warp. To burnish your shaft, use a leather burnisher and avoid abrasives. Sanding your shaft wears it down and makes the wood porous, which allows moisture to penetrate the grain and damage the wood.

Stay away from abrasives

Do not use any abrasives on your shaft and stay away from green pads in Pool Rooms. Using abrasives is going to take the diameter of your shaft down and modify the shape of your taper. It may even void the warranty of your Predator shaft if the ferrule or wood diameter falls below 12.25mm for 314 shafts and 11.4mm for Z shafts. Very fine micro papers (1500 grit) or burnishing is about all you need.

Break cue weight

Contrary to what many believe, lighter is better when choosing a break cue weight. Even though a heavier break cue feels more powerful, a more powerful break will be achieved with a cue weighing 18.5 to 19 oz. Most professional players break with a cue that is 1/2 to 1 oz lighter than their playing cue because less weight allows them to generate more cue speed, resulting in greater cue ball speed and a more powerful break.

You should have known....

2008-02-23T07:23:00.004+07:00

Understanding Cue Ball Deflection

The vast majority of all shots are missed when “English” or sidespin is used. The reason is simple: when you use English, the cue ball doesn’t go where you aim it. That’s called “cue ball deflection” or “cue ball error” and the typical player takes years to learn to compensate for it. The amount of cue ball deflection depends on the cue used, the tip placement and the speed of the stroke. The farther the strike from center, the more the cue ball is deflected off-line. Cue ball deflection will also increase with a faster stroke. Lower deflecting cues require less compensation and therefore make the game easier. The Predator shafts are designed to reduce cue ball deflection and are the lowest deflecting shafts on the market. They greatly increase your chances of making your shot when you use English.

About Pivot Points

With any shaft, there is an optimal point on the shaft, called the pivot point, where you need to bridge to maximize your accuracy. In simple terms, if you bridge at the correct pivot point for your shaft and your initial set-up alignment is on target, you can actually hit the cue ball off-center and still hit the 1-ball dead center.

At that bridge length, the deflection, or squirt, produced by the shaft will compensate for a stroke that deviated from its original set up or alignment. The optimal pivot point on the break is the bridge length that allows you to maximize your speed and gain maximum forgiveness at the same time.

The BK2's pivot point has been tuned between 13" and 14" to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time.

A majority of strong breakers bridge between 13" and 14" because it allows them greater acceleration and more powerful breaks. Most break cues have pivot points between 9" and 11" and require an extremely accurate stroke when using a longer bridge to generate speed. The BK2's pivot point has been tuned between 13" and 14" to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time. With a pivot point 2" longer than its next competitor, the BK2 gives you greater speed, increased accuracy and, much more importantly, a more powerful break.

Important Shots - Practice Drill 1

2008-02-21T00:40:00.001+07:00

The most basic shots are probably also the most important shots of the game. The reason being is because they come up so often. Easy straight-in shots are the key to great positioning. When people tell you that no shot is easy, it is because they are taking the whole shot into consideration, not just pocketing the target ball. The shot begins when all balls have come to a rest and it only ends again when all balls have come to a rest. Being able to control where the cue/object balls will end up is the key to high runs.

Speed control and english are very important, even on the most basic looking shots. Respect this concept first and you'll start to take the entire shot into focus. You will need to visualize the paths of all balls that are contacted once the shot is in motion.

The following setup happens very often. It is a straight in shot. Try setting up this shot and randomly placing another ball anywhere on the table. There should be no where on the table that would be impossible to set yourself up for.

Warning !!!

2008-02-19T21:37:00.000+07:00

Only information .......
Someone with ID Yahoo = niel_maniess will add you in Yahoo Messenger..
Don't in received, that was the virus that most powerful.
Let know all available in list YM you, because if they added,
then and you too received this virus.
Let know everyone in list you to not open the consignment anything, from:
"pempek_timun, avangelint_saint, squdra_boyz, ray_silverlight"
ID yahoo that was the virus that attacked direct to hardisk.
Send this message to anyone in list YM you.

Billiard Cue Cases

2008-02-16T01:16:00.003+07:00

As you already know, the purpose of a billiard cue case is to store and transport your precious billiard cue stick. It is designed to protect them from harsh knocks and temperature, as heat is a major concern as it will damage your billiard cue stick . So is buying a billiard cue case so important? The answer is yes. Even if you own a billiards table at home, you will want to play in any billiard parlor with your friends, or maybe travelling to a distant country to have a good game of pool or billiards. If those golfers do that all the time, why not you. So now, how do you choose the best billiard cue case for yourself? You should always choose one that is hard enough to withstand drops or knocks. There are various billiard cue cases in the market, from cheap ones which are mostly made of soft vinyl, to wooden ones. You would probably pass the soft and cheap type because it does not serve the purpose of protecting your billiard cue stick, it just merely protect your billiard cue from dust. To be practical, go for something that is hard, from hard vinyl to hard leather ones. Those hard vinyl starts from $40 at www.billiard-cue-site.com/index.php , it probably is the lowest on the internet, as it is direct from source. There are codes written on the billiard cue cases, they are information of the number of butts and shaft that can be stored in them. They usually are in the form of numbers, the first one is the number of butts the billiard cue case can store, the second number is the number of shafts the billiard cue case can store. So it goes like this, 24 means the billiard cue case can store 2 butts and 4 shafts. To consider other options, you may want to look at the number of compartments that you need. Typical models are a small compartment that will be able to store your small towel, a chalk and tools for your tip. But before you look into all this options, you must first know the length of your billiard cue stick, if yours is a custom-made billiard cue stick , you would probably have to customized you own billiard cue case, if not, it may not fit.

Basic Billiard Etiquette

2008-02-16T01:11:00.005+07:00

Probably billiards are played by almost every billiard parlor in every country that most of us may miss or not know some basic etiquette of playing billiards. Actually most os them are just basic down right common sense and courtesy,please respect the billiards sport, don't get yourself rowdy over a miscue and tarnish it's image. The very basic and important rule is do not make yourself a distraction to the player. Making sudden loud noise and fast movements may distract the player. But most of all, never stand or cross in the line of sight of the player. What is the line of sight? It is purely the path of the eye of the player focusing along his billiard cue stick, tip and ball. If you are unintentionally in the line of sight of the player, simply stop moving of cause acute movements of the body until the player completes his shot, just be courteous. This too applies to your neighbouring billiards table who is playing in the same billiard parlor, be polite, who knows, you may make more friends this way and probably gain more knowledge in billiards. Also be cautious when you move around the table, your opposite player may suddenly jerk up his billiard cue stick from behind and hit you and get hurt. He may even spread his legs to get a more stable stance, this way you can get yourself being tripped over by his legs. When you are in a situation where you and the opposite player occupying the same spot or position for the next shot, be polite and allow him to play first. It is always better to have the other billiard player go for the shot first, there is a reason to it. When the first billiard player is engaging the shot, believe you me, he is not completely focused on the shot; because he knows and is conscious that someone is looking over his shoulders and waiting for his turn, this way he will have lesser time to plan his shot. If you play last, all this pressure is gone, you can fully concentrate on your shot. Well, what do you know, you have killed two birds in one stone, first you gain a little respect by being courteous, second you have a better shot. Taking too much time to plan a shot is not too nice either, it is irritating. Imagine your opponents are standing there waiting for you to make the next move, you can be sure they will not call you for pool or billiards the next meet at their favourite billiard parlor. It just kills the fun out of it. Usually, professional billiard players use a 45 minutes shot clock, and of course that is quite an unreasonable time length for a beginner or and amateur. But make it a benchmark, it will step up the pace of the game and most importantly it will help you to make faster decisions on making a shot. I am going to tell you something that most of us miss, chalking. After chalking your billiard cue stick, leave the chalk on its side of the billiards table rail. Why? If you leave the chalk facing down with the blue chalk touching the billiards table rail, the powder that is left on the billiards table will stain the shirt of the next person when lying on the billiards table to make his shot. If you leave the chalk facing up, you will stain the shirt directly. And remember not to have the habit of chalking your billiard cue tip after every shot. Your opponent may need the chalk for his shot and you are doing the chalking. Let him have the chalk first, you will always have the time to chlak your billiard cue tip when it is your turn to shoot. And lastly, don't walk away with the chalk after chalking your billiard cue tip. Here are just some of the billiard etiquette that I have shared, I will bring you some more some other time, so stay tuned.

Ching-Shun Yang — The Son of Pool

2008-02-11T01:04:00.000+07:00

Hailing from Chinese Taipei, the prodigy has never failed to amazed the international pool arena with his talents and achievements. World Champion, Earl Strickland acknowledged him as arguably the best player in the world for his break during the 2003 World Pool Championship. One of his most famous wins includes beating Francisco Bustamante to win the All Japan Open in 1996 when he was only sixteen years old. He has also defeated other world champions like Mika Immonen, Ralf Souquet and Efren Reyes but one thing is for sure, he will not be stopped.

PERSONAL INFORMATION

Name: Ching-Shun Yang
Nickname: Son of Pool
Residence: Taipei, Taiwan
DOB: April 3rd, 1978
Birthplace: Kao Hsiung, Taiwan

CAREER HISTORY

2004 San Miguel Asian 9-Ball Tour (Hong Kong) — Champion
2004 San Miguel Asian 9-Ball Tour (Singapore) — Quarter-Finalist
2004 Taiwan 7th Annual Professional Pool Grand Championship — Champion
2003 The First Annual Master Billiard Big Apple 9-Ball Challenge — Quarter-Finalist
2003 World Pool Championship — Quarter-Finalist
2003 San Miguel Asian 9-Ball Tour (Singapore) — Champion
2002 World All Stars Pro Ranking — Champion
2002 World Pool Masters — Last 16
2002 World Pool League — 3rd
2002 World Pool Championship — 3rd
2002 14th Asian Games, Busan (9-Ball Men Singles) — Gold
2001 Tokyo 9-Ball Open — 5th
2001 World Games, Akita — Champion
2001 World Pool Championship — Last 16
2000 World Pool Championship — Last 16
1998 13th Asian Games, Bangkok (9-Ball Men Singles) — Gold
1998 13th Asian Games, Bangkok (8-Ball Men Doubles) with Fong-Pang Chao — Silver 1997
1997 World All-Star Campionship — Champion
1996 All Japan Open — Champion

China International Billiards Exhibition

2008-02-06T02:21:00.000+07:00

Date: Mar ,24-26 2008
Location: Guangzhou Jinhan Exhibition Centre

The 1st China (Guangzhou) International Billiards Exhibition (GBE2007) has made great success at the China Export Commodity Fair on March 19,2007, which is the first show of billiard in China and built up a communication & trade platform successfully. The 2nd China (Guangzhou) International Billiards Exhibition (GBE2008) will take place at Guangzhou Jinhan Exhibition Centre in Canton, China, It will feature more than 8,000 square meters of exceptional exhibit space. For promoting billiard culture, accelerating development of billiard industry and boosting communication between Chinese and foreign professionals, GBE2008 start a series activities to accomplish it, which includes “Global Billiard Culture Forum and Brand Summit”, ” The First China Billiard Club Operation and Management Seminar”, ” The First China Billiard Industry and Culture Tour”.

By participating in GBE2008, you will meet suppliers, buyers, players, operators of club and other professionals from all over the world, and get in touch with Asian billiard market.

Exhibition Scope

Billiards Tables, Cues, Billiards Board (stone), Billiards Cloth, Billiards, Billiards Pole Bags, Chalk, Special Gloves, Lighting, Billiards Baskets, Tripod, Accessories, etc; Table Football, Shuffleboard, Game Tables, Mahjong Machines, Table Tennis, Dart and other family entertainment series, etc.

Important Activities

Global Billiards Cultural Forum and Brand Summit With a unique charming the billiard has became the global gentleman campaign all over the world within several hundred. There are 60 million players of billiards and the billiard culture is developing quickly in China. GBE2008 will bring the world billiards elites coming together in Guangzhou, where both the east and west whip up to hold the billiard cultural feast. Meanwhile, the top billiard brands will bring the unique design philosophy and cultural connotations to demonstrate the latest achievements and trends in billiard industry. Within the "Strong Culture Cultivates Huge Market" concept, the “Global Billiard Culture Forum and Brand Summit” will create the stylized billiard culture to promote the sustained and healthy growth of the industry.

The First China Seminar for Operation and Management of Billiards Club. There are nearly 80 thousand billiard clubs. Because of lacking experiences many clubs are not in optimistic state. Billiard club is the platform to propaganda billiard-culture. Billiard club is the important market of billiard equipments and it is the home of the billiard-players. In order to promote the advanced manage conception, operation way and to improve the operation and manage lever, GBE 2008 organizing committee will invite the famous person and professional manager to discuss how to run billiard club successfully.

The First Tourism Billiards Culture and Industry of China. Billiard is quite popular as a present in Europe and the United States and also it is the age-appropriated indoor entertainment supplies. Billiard is in great demand especially in the Christmas day. The professionals and the foreign buyers pay attention to the billiard industry hoping to understand and communicate more with manufacturers in China. ‘The First China Billiard Industry and Culture Tour’ will invite foreign buyers, associations, media and other professionals to visit clubs and manufacturing base in China, which will build up a comprehensive communication platform for Chinese billiard enterprises and foreign buyers, to speed the development of foreign markets and accelerate foreign trade.

Contact information:
Address: Room 802B, Jiayue Building, Zhongshan Mid Avenue, Guangzhou, China
Phone: 86-20-62809756 Fax: 86-20- 62861756
Name: Levi Wang E-mail: Levi12345678@yahoo.com
Website: www.gbechina.com

Rules/Regulations for Wheelchair Competition

2008-02-03T02:14:00.000+07:00

Player’s Eligibility
All players must have a mobility impaired disability requiring the use of a wheelchair such as paraplegia, quadriplegia, amputation or other recognized disability. In some cases, a doctor’s letter may be required to determine eligibility.

Violations Resulting in Fouls
(a) The shooter must remain seated while playing a shot (at least one cheek on the seat or seat pad). If a seat pad is used, it must remain flat and cover the seat of the wheelchair evenly. The seat pad cannot be bunched up on the seat straddled by the shooter with the shooter’s legs or stumps. The shooter may not sit on the wheel or armrest. The point where the shooter’s buttocks rest on the seat or seat pad must not be higher than 27 in / 68.5 cm from the surface on which the wheelchair rolls in its normal operating position.

(b) Players must not have their foot/feet on the floor while playing a shot. Players must not use their legs or stumps as a leverage against any part of the table or the wheelchair while playing a shot.

(c) Players are permitted to use any help aids such as cue extensions, special bridges, etc. Players may not be assisted when actually shooting (however, another person may hold the bridge, but must not help with the stroke of the cue). If a player requires assistance to roll around the table, another person may help them, but must not be touching the wheelchair during the actual shot.

DRESS CODE

2008-02-03T01:57:00.000+07:00

Each player’s attire must always meet the level of the competition and be clean, proper and in good condition. If an athlete is unsure about the legality of his attire, the athlete should approach the tournament director before the match and ask whether the attire is legal. The tournament director has the final say with regards to the legality of attire. In exceptional circumstances, the director may permit a player to compete in violation of the dress code e.g. when airline luggage has been misplaced. A player may be disqualified for dress code violation.
If there is no announcement before the event, the WPA dress code is assumed. The following are the current requirements for World Championship and World Tour events.

Men
Men may wear a regular collared shirt or polo shirt of any color. Shirt or polo shirt must be tucked in. It must be in a good condition and clean. No T-shirts are allowed. The shirt must have at least a short sleeve.
Dress pants will be clean and in good condition and may be of any color. Denim/blue jeans of any color are forbidden even though a jeans design is allowed.
Shoes must be elegant dress shoes that fit in the outfit. Sneakers and sandals are not allowed. Sports shoes with a dark top of leather or leather-like material are allowed but are subject to the tournament director’s discretion.

Women
Women may wear a shirt, an elegant top, a dress, a blouse or a polo shirt. T-shirts are not permitted.
Dress pants will be clean and in good condition and may be of any color. Denim/blue jeans of any color are forbidden even though a jeans design is allowed. Female athletes may wear a skirt which must cover the knees.
Shoes must be elegant dress shoes that fit in the outfit. Sneakers and sandals are not allowed. Sports shoes with a dark top of leather or leather-like material are allowed but are subject to the tournament director’s discretion.

Tips For Buying Cue

2008-01-30T23:54:00.000+07:00

There are a number of things to know when shopping for a billiard cue stick . The number one thing you need to know is of course yourself, you need to determine which skill level you are in.For beginners, a good range to start will be from $50 to $150. Do not go lower than that. Ultra cheap billiard cue stick do have problems, like the straightness of the billiard cue stick may be compromised, or the finishing is lousy. And you can forget about durability. For intermediate to advances players, you should consider billiard cue stick ranging from $200 and above. You have to be knowledgeable somehow, because a big part of the cost you are paying for are for the wrapping, designs and ornaments on the billiard cue butt. As professional players tend to go for light billiard cue stick nowadays, the average weight of a billiard cue can range from 18 - 21 ounces.Break cues are billiard cue stick you may consider buying sonmetime down the road. As breaking can shorten the lifespan of your billiard cue stick. So if you have a break cue to do the job, it will help minimise the wear and tear of you billiard cue stick.Wood cues, Graphite cues and Fiberglass billiard cue stick, which one is the right one for you? Of course, if you are a beginner, this question will not bother you. Overall, wood billiard cue stick are better, as they give you a better feel than graphite or fiberglass. But having said all this, wood billiard cue stick need more maintainence as wood billiard cue stick are subjected to dents and moisture.And to add more weight to this discussion, professional players swear by wood billiard cue stick than graphite or fiberglass billiard cue stick. Wood billiard cue stick are more sensitive to the feel, weight and balance.After all, the billard cue stick you are about to buy have to meet your own criteria, your budget, your likings and how serious you are into the billiard game. The rest are secondary.So before you head on down to a billiard shop and start playing in a billiard parlor, do consider the above as a simple guideline.

LA Lights Billiard Tournament

2008-01-30T23:43:00.000+07:00

Skill Level

2008-01-29T01:39:00.000+07:00

SL1
For those whose never been played billiard. At this level, even an easy ball cant be pocketed.
SL2
Player at this level can shot an easy ball. But still found troubles to pocketed more than 1 ball.
SL3
Easy to pocket even the hard ball. But the cue ball is still wildly wander around.
SL4
Know how to pocket, and cue ball is very much controlled. But lack of advance skills, such a safety and english.
SL5
Know how to pocket, controls the cue, and mastered safety also English well.
SL6
This for Intermediate player. They can runned out 1 frame easily.
SL7
Very much likely as SL6 but with improvement Strategy.
SL8
Advance or Pro. with better overall than SL 7

Which one is Yours

Masse Shot

2008-01-23T21:37:00.000+07:00

Without a doubt, the most difficult shot to get consistent at. Everyone has visions of holes in the felt and broken cues trying the Masse'. That doesn't have to be the case if you start with the softer approach. Use a bridge with your fingers on the table and a very light grip on the cue. Now use a light tap and work your way up until you see it starting to do something. You'll be making short Masse's before you know it and your table will remain in perfect condition.

When Most Used

When your opponent's ball is slightly or directly in your shot path.

How To

The angle of the cue depends on how far away the blocking ball is. You have to project the cue ball past it before the spin takes effect. The further away the blocking ball is the lower the angle on the cue. The closer the blocking ball is the higher the angle you need on the cue.

The Hit

Imagine cutting a carrot with a knife and chop for a clean cut.

Billiard Shops

2008-01-19T00:28:00.000+07:00

IB Pro Shop & Supplier

Contact Person: Mr. Ferry Danuarta
Jl. Pulo Mas Barat VA / 29
Jakarta 12310
INDONESIA

Phone : (021) 4786 1205
Mobile : 0812 825 1974
E-mail : danuarta_ferry@yahoo.com
Website: http://www.ibproshop.com/

ISAK BILLIARD

JAKARTA

http://www.isakbilliard.com/

SURABAYA

1-Billiard Supplier

BSD DeLatinos Komp. Mexicano Blok C6 no. 8
Serpong - Tangerang
Indonesia 15310
Phone : 62-81-79962622 ; Fax : 62-21-7202921
Phone : 0817 99 62622 ; Fax : 021 7202921
Email : marketing@1billiardsupplier.com
Website: http://www.1billiardsupplier.com/

More to be added....
I will really thank if available one help for information affix in around Billiard at Indonesian.
All info about Shop, Player, Billiard's place, and Tournament that i will posting is name therewith its source.

How To Aim Succesfully

2008-01-19T00:22:00.000+07:00

How to aim the cue ball has always been a troublesome concept to learn because aiming a round ball to hit a precise spot on another round ball some distance away requires abstract visualization in the mind's eye to complete the process. You have to train your brain over time to develop a feel for the correct line of aim. Normally you do this by trial and error until the ball begins to go into the pocket on a regular basis for a particular angle or distance. The brain basically builds a memory for line of aim for each of these shots. As the angle changes and or the distance increases your brain has to once more go through the process of relearning the line of aim for the new shot. Unfortunately there are thousands of different angles and varying distances to the pocket which takes years to master them all. Add to that your varying state of mind from day to day and you are never quite sure If your abstract point of aim is going to produce the results that you desire.

How to aim successfully...

We have two eyes and actually see three pictures:

The picture recorded by our left eye.

The picture recorded by our right eye.

Top 4 Pro's Favorite Cues

2008-01-19T00:16:00.000+07:00

Here are the top four cues used out of 128 professional players:

Predator 30%
Schon 8%
Bear 7%
Joss 3%

I am surprised to see that 30% of the players are using Predator.

Akikumo Toshikawa Cue Tec
Al Logan Schon
Alan Rolon Predator
Alan Tan Predator
Alex Lely Predator
Alex Pagulayan Schon with Predator shaft
Alok Kumar John Parris Snooker cue
Andreja Klasovic Bear
Anthony Ginn Predator
Antonio Gabica Edwin Reyes Custom Cue
Antonio Lining Schon
Charlie Williams Predator

Meucci's Black Dot Bullseye Shaft

2008-01-19T00:08:00.000+07:00

For Meucci fans...

Table of Shaft test

2008-01-18T23:26:00.000+07:00

Find the best combination for your butt.
Choose the one which suit you perfectly.

Choose wisely.......

Table of Break Cue test

2008-01-18T23:17:00.000+07:00

Which will suits you...??

The Winning Shot!

2008-01-16T18:48:00.000+07:00

Ever become house at dark and stress to go asleep after wanting the winning stroke? I’m certain everyone that plays in contest has. Did we click it? Were we sharked? Or did we but want? Doesn’t subject, it’s all the one. We missed and we lost. Sleep doesn’t get easily when you knew you had it in the base so ground an open trap in that base. Throughout the days, mass have do to me to order how torturing it was to have to the winning egg, but to want it. How they ran the wheel away absolutely to the nine so blew it. How they navigated a pretty practice on the stripe to have to the eight formal so. whoops. What happens at this stop? Pressure? Loss of density? Too loosed? Well, possibly you but no lika mony? Maybe you no lika to acquire? Maybe you no lika to rest tonight? All kidding by lets stress to see away why these shots are wanted and control what we can make about it. What does it be to be the winning shot?
These thoughts are geared to most of you that are out of the novice’s point, but even real good to everyone at all levels, then stress to be with me. Or as they said in TheTerminator movies, "Come with me if you seek to gain. " Or was it if you require to be? Doesn’t subject for us pool players its all the one. So now, the Barber speaks.
Let’s walk through a stand of nine baseball. Here you are, example biz, stepping upwards to the board with both of you on the hill; the account tied 6 each in a wash to seven. Your opposite simply broke the balls, pocketing the five and seven, while starting the clue baseball off the board, having you baseball in deal. Not an only lump tied upward and they’re only smarting to be work away. You review the layout and go to site the clue baseball in place for a stroke on the one baseball.
You scoop the one in the position scoop and be the clue lump two track for side on the two, being certain non to invade it because of the possible risk of getting lifted. Cue baseball comes to be with a good stroke on the two baseball. Two baseball goes into the niche pouch with a hard heart baseball shot to floor whitey across the board for the three, being certain non have it also direct because the four is in a position that will take a slant on the three baseball. Man are you in air, your contact was superb on this really serious shot. Your trust is today making to an up point and as you finish off the three and point fair situation on the four.
A complete point scene on the four is taked for form on the six globe that is much falling in the face pouch. Remember the five and seven were pocketed on the shift stroke when the clue formal left the board. He likely jumped the tilt off the board because he tried to gain the biz with one stroke, which is another issue for another second. Now, getting backwards to that four formal, it must be have with a complete shot to have an out point on the clue formal, for build on the six.
Too first and also bad and the clue egg may side instead of point. Hitting the four away heart will have the clue lump to get away to one face or the new. You’re very making today, that was true even! And there’s that falling six formal that must be have really quietly with a small good english to slow the clue formal upward after it contacts the track, so that you wear’t overrun the build for the eight. Excellent! Your opposite is today geting to fidget in his chairwoman but you are all unaware to his antics because you are today in the zone.
A hard lot scene is taked on the eight to have on the nine. Being careful not to miscue you halt to scuff your top and glass upward. You’re downward on the scene concentrating on the total of might needed to get away the eight so get away the track so that you will be healthy to bridge upward nicely for the nine. Perfect! And there’s the nine, only a small turned slant with a small space but only what you asked it to be. Type of stroke that if person asked you what you thought of it; you would tell, " no problemo.
Now there it is, the winning scene! You search at it with trust and make yourself for the gain. But look, there’s something you must make foremost, before getting downward into side to call the stroke, you determine it’s second to make upward and get away that change taged Concentration and Confidence, and get on the change for question and negativity. After all, this shooting requires a different normal than all the early shots. This guess doesn’t take line for another formal. This one requires new ingredients much as non also bad, non also little, wear’t want, wear’t slip. Don’t’ sugar, …wear’t succeed.
Now you make downward into situation and tell, What’s geting on here? All of a fast this nine formal is geting to search large than before, and the pouch still looks small today, too the position of that pouch is geting to pass. Possible scratches begin to rule your thoughts. The mind of wanting is today geting a theory…What happened to "no problemo? Let’s control...
Your concentration was great throughout the whole rack, till you got to the nine ball, then you decided to change your mind set. Before getting to the nine you kept your mind busy with positive thoughts and there was no empty space in your mind for anything else to creep into it. By turning off the switch for concentration and confidence you allowed your mind to get weak and left an open space for negative thoughts such as the don’ts and no’s to slip in.
Step back, take a deep breath, slow down, and see what you need to do, plan the shot with positive thoughts. We need to train ourselves to keep our mind busy just like we did with all the previous shots.
Attack the last shot with the same intense concentration as all the rest. Have a designated spot for the cue ball to come to rest at.
Let’s sum it up. The winning shot is not just the last ball but starts with the first ball and continues to the last ball. All the balls are the winning shot. The winning shot is the whole rack. Come on, if you’re in stroke, leave that switch on!!

Benefits of a Break Cue

2008-01-08T03:11:00.000+07:00

If you have the fiscal means, the benefits of an interruption clue can be good valuable the investing. The about plain welfare of a delay clue is the fact that you won't kill the point of your making clue by forgeing it in to the clue baseball. After a some months of good gambling second, a regular clue's point can get misshapen and unaligned from the continuous misuse it takes from shift shots. Using an even performing clue to do shift shots can have the clue's top to drop away and be along a "mushroom" build. Also, because of the might used for shift shots, a set of strain is thinked in the common and tool during link. This hard might will head to broken or free clue airs. Owning an escape clue can go the living of your performing clue indefinitely.
One may too need a proper clue planed for interruption shots that they can send some to different pond venues and exercise in home of short home cues. If you ever better with the like clue, you'll doubtless better the truth and the winner pace of your interruption shots. Additionally, by having a forward, other interruption clue, you'll welfare from being healthy to take a way that is more houseing to better shots, but that would non be right for an even performing clue. When bettering, it is good to have a large, flatter clue top. This increases the region of link, and decreases the chances of a slip on the recess stroke. Though these are but a some benefits of a shift clue, they are all benefits that make the extra investing a worthy one for pond making enthusiasts of all science levels.

Billiard Jump Cue

2008-01-08T03:08:00.000+07:00

The billiard start clue is specifically planed to support the musician be best start shots. It does this by being planed with special features that work it best for lobbing the clue baseball over a target baseball right. Many players too get that billiard start cues are too best for prank shots and aesthetic billiards. What makes a billiard start clue other from an even clue you take? Well, there are some important differences that do it aside from an even clue, including distance and concentration. The distance of a billiard start clue is well shorter than that of an even clue. This shortness allows the musician to more well jack upward the can of the clue, which is a popular proficiency for doing start shots. Generally the shot raises the clue to make a 45 point slant with the bottom of the billiard board in club to have the right launching.
Of way, there is some tilt within the billiard profession regarding the exercise of billiard start cues, primarily because the use of starting balls is fairly disputed. You may have already finded that positive billiard halls will have notices posted indicating that the use is prohibited. Their important concerns rest around the opening of injuring others with runing balls, or of damaging the pond board material. Jumping is too typically prohibited within unprofessional conference fun. Regardless of the tilt, there is a positive best feel of "cold" when you are in at pocketing a start scene. A billiard start clue can boost you make this feel more well.

Francisco Bustamante

2007-12-21T08:01:00.000+07:00

Although this pool warrior roams on the green pastures in Germany, he is undoubtedly Filipino when he mercilessly operates in the pool table. And when he sits down with Reyes and Luat, he goes even closer to his home Pampanga as they seem to lock the bond among themselves in the very unique Kapampangan dialect that they speak in. Django feels that he is a Champion, but he knows that he is not an Efren. Nevertheless, come tournament time, the heart of this World Champion will not be intimidated by anybody, including his Compadreng Efren.

Name : Francisco Bustamante
Residence : Kiel, Germany
DOB : December 29, 1963
Birthplace : Tarlac, Philippines

CAREER HISTORY

2003 Joss NE 9-Ball Tour Stop #18
2003 Joss NE 9-Ball Tour Stop #17
2002 Gabriels Las Vegas Invitational
2002 Peninsula 9-Ball Open
2002 Sudden Death 7-Ball
2002 Japan Open Champion
2002 Motolite 9-Ball Challenge Champion
2002 IBC Tour Stop 2 Champion
2001 World Pool Masters Champion
2001 Turning Stone Casino Classic II Champion
2001 Joss Northeast Tour Stop 2
2000 1st Motolite International 9-Ball Championships
1999 Champion of the Champions
1999 Tulsa 9-Ball Championships
Riviera Pro 8-Ball Open
1998 Tulsa 9-Ball Championships
1998 Camel Pro Billiards Series Championships
1998 Sands Regency Open 28
1998 Player of the Year
1994-96 German Masters
1993 Bicycle Club Pro Championship
World Team Championship (Team Philippines)
1992 Japan Open
1991 Munich Masters
1991 Japanese 9-Ball Championship
1991 German 9-Ball Championship
1990 Brunswick Munich Masters
1990 German 9-Ball Championship

Outside the pool hall, Django maintains an aura of his stature - silent and dignified, but not arrogant at all. He goes around in nice collared t-shirts neatly tucked in blue jeans over shiny leather shoes. A closer view will let you see Django breaking into laughter that is visibly happier than its audio volume. His innate self-confidence is what had brought him to far Germany as a teaching pro in 1989. After constantly wrestling with Antonio Lining, the late "Bicol Bata", Victor Arpilleda, brothers Totoy and Pepito Dacer, Snookie Villanueva, Florencio Bañar, and Romy "Salamin" Del Rosario, and Edgar Acaba one of the most contested turfs in Metro Manila - Farmer's Cubao, Django decided to start his quest to conquer the world with his patented break and cunning precision.

After two years in Europe, Django captured his first, and to him, one of his most memorable tournaments, the Munich Masters against Mike Lebron. Since then, he has enjoyed life to the fullest doing what he enjoys most - playing pool. This Christmas break brought him back to Manila for a vacation and he just cannot keep away from the pool hall. Occasionally, he goes to see a movie. Django goes out brisk walking twice a week for physical fitness. His practice is playing money games in between tournaments. For him, what is important is to get enough sleep before a tournament.

Even if Django is very close to Efren exposing him to the secrets of Efren,he has maintained his own style. As he starts his game with an awesome break, his presence is initially intimidating. But like his flawless game, Django blends fame and personality to an admirable consistency. Just do not be fooled by his humble ways because he will cut you down mercilessly in the pool table.

Efren Reyes

2007-12-21T07:49:00.000+07:00

He is the game's most feared player. Efren Reyes is without a doubt the the master of pocket billiards. Dubbed "The Magician", Efren Reyes has re-invented the game of nineball by introducing the importance of kicks and safeties.

Name : Efren Reyes
Residence : Angeles City, Philippines
DOB : August 26, 1954
Birthplace : Pampanga, Philippines

CAREER HISTORY

2003 Mid Atlantic 9-Ball Championships
2002 Challenge of Champions
2002 Shooters Labor Day Weekend Open 9-Ball Champion
2002 Cafe Puro Challenge of the Masters Champion
2002 Worl Pool League Champion
2001 Tokyo 9-Ball Champion
2001 World Pool League Champion
2001 Masters 9-Ball Championships
2001 Color of Money II Winner
2001 Supreme Masters of Billiards
2000 U.S. Open One-Pocket Championship
2000 Camel Pro 8-Ball Championship
2000 Pennsylvania State 9-Ball Championship
2000 USA Billiards Challenger Event
1999 ESPN Ultimate 9-Ball Challenge
1999 Victor Chandler World Pool Championship
1999 Derby City Classic - One Pocket Championship
1999 Sands Regency Open 29 9-Ball Championship
1999 All Japan Championship (Japan Open)
1998 World 8-Ball Championship
1998 South Jersey 10-Ball Championship
1996 Sands Regency Open 9-Ball Championship
1996 The Color of Money 9-Ball Champion (Reyes vs Strickland)
1996 PBT World 8-Ball Championship
1996 Legends 9-Ball Championship
1996 Florida Flare Up III 9-Ball Championship
1996 Western Open 9-Ball Championship
1995 Maine Event 14.1 Championships
1995 Sands Regency Open 21 9-Ball Championship
1995 PBT World 8 Ball Championship
1995 Pro Tour Championship 9-Ball
1995 Player of the Year
1994 U.S. Open 9-Ball Championship
World Team Championship (Team Philippines)
1992 International 8-Ball Classic
1992 World 9-Ball Open (Tokyo)
1990 World Cup (Taipei) 1988 McDermott Masters
1987 SEA Games Gold Medalist (snooker) 1986 Sands Regency 9-Ball Championship
1985 Sands Regency 9-Ball Championship 1985 Houston Red's Open (under assumed name "Cezar Morales")

COMMENDATIONS

- The Outstanding Filipino awardee of the Philippines Jaycees
- Recipient of the Philippines Legion of Honor from the Philippine government
- Athlete of the Year of the Philippines Sportswriters Association
- Asian Games and Southeast Asian Games Gold medallist

Parts of The Pool Table

2007-12-20T16:59:00.000+07:00

Parts and equipment

Cushions

Cushions (also sometimes called “rails”, “rail cushions”, “cushion rubber”, or “bumpers”) are located on the sides of the tables’ rails. There are several different materials and design philosophies associated with cushion rubber. The cushions are made from an elastic material such as vulcanized (gum or synthetic) rubber. The chiefly American jargon "rail" more properly applies to the wooded outer segments of the table to which the cushions are affixed.
The purpose of the cushion rubber is to cause the billiard balls to rebound off the rubber while minimizing the loss of kinetic energy.
The profile of the rail cushion, which is the cushion's angle in relation to the bed of the table, varies between table types. The standard on American pool tables is the K-66 profile, which as defined by the BCA has a base of 1-3/16 inches and a nose height of 1 inch [1]. This[clarify] causes the balls' rebound to be somewhat predictable during game play.
On a carom table, the K-55 profile is used (with a somewhat sharper angle than pool cushions). K-55 cushions have cloth, usually canvas, vulcanized into the top of the rubber to adjust rebound accuracy and speed [2].
Finally, snooker tables use the K-66 profile, like pool tables, but the cushion is an "L" shape. This is mostly[clarify] because snooker uses balls of a smaller diameter and smaller pocket entrances than does pool.

Cloth

Billiard cloth (sometimes erroneously called felt) is a specific type of cloth that covers the top of the table's "playing area". Both the rails and slate beds are covered with 21-24 ounce billiard cloth (although some less expensive 19oz cloths are available) which is most often green in color (representing the grass of the original lawn games that billiards evolved from), and consists of either a woven wool or wool/nylon blend called baize.
Most bar tables, which get lots of play, use the slower, thicker blended cloth because it can better withstand heavy usage. This type of cloth is called a woolen cloth. By contrast, high quality pool cloth is usually made of a napless weave such as worsted wool, which gives a much faster roll to the balls. This "speed" of the cloth affects the amounts of swerve and deflection of the balls, among other aspects of game finesse. Snooker cloth traditionally has a directional nap, upon which the balls behave differently when rolling against vs. toward the direction of the nap.

Pool Table Dimension

2007-12-20T16:48:00.000+07:00

In the United States, manufacture of billiards tables has been ongoing since at least the mid nineteenth century. The forerunner of the Brunswick Company began commercial manufacture in 1845.[2] In San Francisco, California, several manufacturers were active by the late 1800s.

Dimensions

Many people are confused by the use of the word "regulation", using it when what they mean to refer to is the size of tables used for professional tournaments. Regulation tables come in 3.5 ft by 7 ft, 4 ft by 8 ft, 4.5 ft by 9 ft, 5 ft by 10 ft, and 6 ft by 12 ft (depending upon factors such as available room in the venue, and what game type the table is intended for) with play areas twice as long as they are wide (plus or minus 1/8 in) from the nose of the cushion to the nose of the opposite cushion, i.e., perfect or close to perfect rectangles. The 4.5 ft by 9 ft model is the standard size for tournament play and is "regulation" when the side to side internal width is 50 in and the length is 100 in (plus or minus 1/8 in), when measured cushion nose to cushion nose. In previous generations 10 ft tables were standard for pool, and can still be found as antiques in some pool halls; this size remains the standard for carom games. For home use, 8 ft tables are somewhat common, but infrequently used elsewhere. Snooker tables, the largest at 12 feet when full-sized, have smaller pocket aperatures than pool tables, as do models for Russian pyramid. The 7 ft models, usually coin-operated, are typically found in bars/pubs due to limited space, and are also used for the Korean game of four ball.[citation needed] Coin-operated pool tables use multiple ways to determine the cue ball from the object balls, including light sensors[citation needed], different ball sizes/weights, or magnetic triggers.
While most tables are rectangles, there are novelty tables which are round, hexagonal and even zig-zag shaped. These variants, however, are all far less popular than the ubiquitous, traditional rectangular tables.

Ray Martin

2007-12-07T13:20:00.001+07:00

Ray Martin: Born in 1936, his world titles in straight pool in 1971, 1974, and 1978 make Ray Martin one of only seven players in this century to win three or more world 14.1 titles. He has as many nine-ball tournament wins to his credit as well, including the 1980 Caesars Tahoe Invitational, the 1981 ESPN King of the Hill, and the 1983 Music City Open. While concentrating today more on teaching than playing, Martin is still a threat in straight pool tournaments, finishing 4th and 5th in the 1992 and 1993 BCA U.S. Opens. In collaboration with Rosser Reeves , Martin wrote a book called The 99 Critical Shots in Pool.

Eddie Taylor

2007-12-07T13:18:00.000+07:00

Eddie Taylor is a two-time world all-around tournament champion. He defeated Hall-of-Famer Luther Lassiter in all-around finals in Johnston City, in 1964. He also defeated Danny Jones, and Mike Eufemia at the 1967 Stardust Open finals in Las Vegas. He lost to Lassiter in the 1967 Johnston City all-around finals, and finished 7th in the 1967 World 14.1 championship in New York. Eddie Taylor being born in Knoxville, Tennessee was known as the “Knoxville Bear” He was inducted into the Knoxville Sports Hall of Fame in 1987. He is an active promoter of billiards in Boys Clubs of America, and is regarded as one of the greatest one-pocket and bank pool players of all time.

Father of American Billiards

2007-12-07T13:16:00.000+07:00

Michael Phelan is considered by many as the “Father of American Billiards” as a player, inventor, manufacturer, and tireless popularize of billiards. He won the first billiard stakes match in 1859. He holds many patents for billiard table designs, and cushions. He is credited to be the first to put diamonds on the table. He authored the book Billiards Without a Master, the first American book on billiards, and set the trend for lavish billiard rooms through his New York room on Broadway.

THE WEAPON

2007-12-01T13:45:00.001+07:00

An essential tool to play Pool. Slightly description of its parts. Knows your weapon

Cues average around 58 inches in length and are of three major types. One type is a one piece cue; these are generally stocked in pool halls for use by the casual player. They have a uniform taper, meaning they decrease in diameter evenly from the end or butt to the tip. The other type is the two piece cue, divided in the middle for ease of transport, usually in a cue case. The third is another two piece cue but the joint is located three-quarters down the cue (usually 12 or 16 inches away from the butt). There are also cues that have more, notably three to five. They are usually for intermediate cues that can be used for breaking, jumping, changing of weights on the butt, as well as extensions on the butt end for longer reaches. As well, some cues have screw-in tips that can be interchanged (larger, smaller, denser, softer, etc...) in order to change the impact and path of the cue ball. Certain two piece cues that look like one piece cues are called "Sneaky-Petes". They are usually plain in design to look like a regular one-piece bar cue so as to hustle unsuspecting gamblers.

Joints

The large heavy piece of the cue is known as the cue butt and the smaller end is known as the shaft. The two pieces of the cue are attached at the joint, which is normally made up of a screw rising from butt end's joint (male) which is threaded into a receptacle on the shaft (female). The joints are made of various materials; usually a plastic, brass, stainless steel, or wood outer layer, but sometimes custom cues are made of bone, antlers, and other more expensive materials that are usually less common, but serve the same effect. However, the main for snooker cues are brass. The internal male and female connection points are almost always brass, or steel since they respond less to temperature changes and thus expand and contract less than other materials, preserving the life of the cue. Joints have different sizes as well as different male and female ends on the shaft and butts of the cues. Traditional designs employ a fully threaded connection, while newer versions such as Uni-loc, Accu-loc, or Tru-loc, employ half threaded "Quick pin release" connections to allow for players to assemble and disassemble their cues faster.

Parts of the Shaft

Shafts are made with various tapers, the two most common being the Pro taper and the European taper. The Pro taper has the same diameter from the tip to 30-35 cm (12-14 inches) down. The European taper is conical and widens towards the joint.

Ferrule

The end of the shaft has a cuff known as the ferrule which is used to hold the cue tip in place and to bear the brunt of impact with the cue ball so that the less resilient shaft wood does not split. Ferrules are predominantly made of ivory, carbon fiber, or a plastic such as melamine resin, aegis or phenolic resin which are extremely durable, high-impact materials that are resistant to cracking, chipping, and breaking. Brass is popular among snooker cues.

Tips

Leather tips of varying degrees of shapes and hardness are affixed to the ferrule. The standard shapes for a tip are nickel and dime, determined by shaping a tip so that when one puts a nickel or dime to it, they are the same curvature. Quarter-shaped tips are less common, though are usually used for breaking cues because less curvature means less accidental spin and more accuracy for a straight shot such as the break. Rounder tips impart English (more colloquially known as spin) more easily since the point of contact between a tip and the cueball requires less distance from the center hit to do the same amount of spin due to the increased tangential contact. Tips are sometimes made of harder materials such as phenolic resin because it is favored upon for a break cue (Breaks usually require less spin, thus less round harder tips preserve the shape of the tip longer without sacrificing the effectiviness of the break). The tip end of the cue will vary in diameter but is typically in the 11 to 14 millimeter ('mm') range with 13 mm for pool cues being most common and 9.5 mm for Snooker cues being most common. Because leather naturally compresses and hardens with consequent shots, it is more likely to slide off of the cueball, from smoothness/glossiness of the tip, on the hit without some material allowing it to grip the cueball. To help in this matter, Cue chalk is placed on the tip of the cue, ideally after every shot, so that the player does not miscue. This is especially important when the player is not hitting the cueball in the center and is, thus, imparting English to the cue ball. There are different grades of hardness for tips, ranging from very soft to very hard. Softer tips like "Elk Master" hold chalk better, but tend to degrade faster from abrasion (from chalk and scuffers), shaping (from cue tip shapers/tackers/picks), and mushrooming (from normal use or hard hits that compact the tip from all directions). Harder tips like "Triangle" and "Blue Diamond" maintain their shape much better, but because of their hardness, chalk tends to not hold as well as it does on softer tip materials. Usually the hardness of a tip is from the compression that was used in making it. Some tips are layered (like Moori and Talisman) and some are one-piece (like "LePro"). Layered tips hold their shape better than one-piece tips, but they can sometimes "unlayer/delaminate" from use, shots, or tip tools. One-piece tips don't have this disadvantage, but instead tend to mushroom more easily.

THE WEAPON pt 2

2007-12-01T13:44:00.001+07:00

Butt, Bumper and Materials.

Cue stick Part 2

Butt

In the cue butt portion of the cue, the bulk of the weight of the cue is usually distributed here. Whether the weight be 18 oz. or 22 oz., the weight change is mainly in the butt (usually in the core, under the wrap). Butts have varying constructions, from 3-piece to one-piece, as well as other custom versions that people have developed. These translate into different "feels" because of the distribution of weight as well as the balance point of the cue. Traditionally, players want the balance point of a cue near the top end of the wrap or around 7 inches from where they grip the butt. The cue butt is often inlaid with exotic woods such as cocobolo and bocote as well as other materials such as ebony and ivory. Usually parts of the butt are sectioned off with decorative rings. The use of various types of wraps on the cue butt, such as Irish linen or leather, provide a player with a better grip as well as absorbing moisture. Cheaper cues usually feature a nylon wrap which is considered not as good a "feel" as Irish Linen. Fiberglass and Graphite cues usually have a "Veltex" grip that is made of fiberglass/graphite, but is smoother and not glossy. Some people also prefer a cue with no wrap, and thus just a glossed finish on wood. Sometimes these no-wrap cues are more decorated because of the increased area for design and imagination. The butt of cheaper cues are usually spliced hardwood and a plastic covering while more high-end cues use solid rosewood or ebony.

Materials and design

The choice of materials used in the construction of the cue butt and the artistry of the design can lead to cues of great beauty and high price. Good quality pool cues are customarily made from straight grained hard rock maple wood, especially the shaft. Snooker cues, by contrast, are almost always made of ash wood. Cues are not always for play, some are purely collectible and can reach prices of tens of thousands of dollars for the materials they are made of and their exquisite craftsmanship. There have been a number of famous cue makers over the years. Among the most famous are George Balabushka, Brunswick, Longoni, John Parris, Samsara, Southwest, and Szamboti whose cues are often very valuable to collectors. These "collector" cues often have ornate inlays with precious metals and stones, and varying woods to display designs and works of art, but mainly fine workmanship and top quality materials. The woods can be stained to be absorbed into the wood and transparent or painted upon. These cues are also valued because of how well they perform. Competitors of custom cue makers and mass-production manufacturors usually try to make cues look like they are made of expensive materials by using overlays and decals. Although these deter the cost of the cues, they do not degrade the cues effectiveness in gameplay. Another mark of quality is the precision that inlays are set in the wood. High quality inlays are set perfectly in the wood without any extra space to be filled; they are also perfectly symmetrical on all sides as well as clean cut so that the points are sharp and not rounded. The use of machines has aided much in the production of high quality inlays as well as other ornaments.

Bumper

The last but not least portion of a cue is the bumper. Though often disregarded in importance compared to the other parts, this part is essential in protecting a cue as well as preserving its "feel". The bumper protects the cue whenever one puts it on the ground or hits it against a wall, person, or table. Without it, the vibrations would ruin the wood over time. The vibrations also play a role in the "feel" of the cue. Without the bumper, the resonance of a hit for cue and cueball vibrates differently than in a cue with a properly screwed on and tight bumper. Though minuscule, the bumper also adds some weight on the end of the cue, preserving a balance that also relates to the feel of a cue. The bumper in snooker cues is made of leather in high-end models.

CUE MAINTENANCE

2007-12-01T13:39:00.000+07:00

After prolonged use of a cue, it inevitably loses its perfect smoothness, shape, cleaniness, and feel. Tips usually start to mushroom if they are soft and they start to hold less chalk. Ferrules become the "blue-ring" infested house cues in pool halls and bars. Shafts develop a distinguished blue tint and aren't as smooth as when they were new. The glossy and shiny parts of the cue become dull, oily, and full of fingerprints. Wraps develop scents of smoke and sweat, and may even start to disentangle and come loose. The butts of cues may start to rattle and the bumpers on the end may not even be there anymore.

Tips

Tips are usually maintained by various tip tools to keep the tip in a nickel or dime shape with a degree of roughness for chalk to hold fairly well. First trim the edges of the mushrooming excess leather that is over the diameter of the ferrule with a knife, razor, or specially designed tool. If a tip is left mushroomed, the shots will be less consistent and may lead to more miscues and scratches. Also, imparting spin on the ball is less accurate as opposed to a well-maintained tip. Then reshape with tip shapers (such as Williards Tip Shaper, ATROX tool, sandpaper, or other tools) which reshape the tip to look like the preferred curvature, typically that of a nickel or dime. Finally, use a rougher sandpaper, a tip scuffer, and/or tip pick to roughen and perforate the tip, respectively. Scuffers and sandpaper are known to reduce tip size over time if used too liberally (periodically). That is the reason tip picks were designed; they poke holes into the tip so that there are perforations for chalk to be embedded into. This serves the same purpose in allowing more chalk to be held on the tip. Though these tools are useful, it is not recommended to use them too often. Usually one wants to "tune-up" the tip after it has started to mushroom, or poor performance is noticed, or before an important game such as a tournament. Using tip tools too much decreases the lifetime of the tip and subsequently requires the purchase new tips more often or to live with a flattened out tip that is almost at the ferrule, which is very dangerous and not good for one's game. Chalk is naturally abrasive to the tip and if chalked periodically (every turn), it should keep the tip rough enough. Tips should be replaced whenever they wear down to 1 mm to touching the ferrule, since damaging the ferrule can be very expensive to replace. Replacement tips can cost anywhere from 25 cents to $25 depending on quality.

Ferrules

Next item down is the ferrule. If one looks around at most house cues in pool halls and bars, one will notice distinguished blue rings around the ferrule (if the chalk used is blue). This is because of poor chalking technique. Many beginners tend to chalk their cues too hard and in a circular motion. In general this would be ok, but the problem is they don't know when to use a new chalk. Chalk should be replaced when it has a hole that is relatively deep. When people use chalk that has a large hole in it and rotate the chalk in a circular motion, it makes the ring around the ferrule. This ring is usually hard to get rid of unless taken care of early. Different chalks have different stain factors and powdery breakdown that can determine how hard it is to remove the stain. For light stains, one can quickly wipe it away with the fingers or a tissue; it is best to refrain from using damp products near a cue because if moisture gets into the wood it can ruin it due to the expansion and contraction of the water. Certain cleaning products can also be used to clean the stain, but it is best to prevent the stain in the first place. When chalking, one should do a light circular motion as well as scraping the whole chalk cube across points that are not covered well with chalk. Done correctly over a substantial time, the chalk has a shallow hole and is relatively flat. This is because one is chalking lightly and not grinding the chalk into the tip, as well as scraping, so that even if there were high walls around the deep hole, they would wear down after some time.

Shaft

A heavy chalker will usually also have a blue tint shaft (from blue chalk, other colors for other colored chalk). Exceptionally powdery or stainable chalks trickle down from the tip down to the shaft and as one strokes, one spreads the chalk on the shaft and stain it over time. This can't be helped in some places where it is dirty and players place chalk incorrectly on the table, thus getting it on the hands and table cloth even more. After chalking the cue, one should place the chalk facing up so that the process of putting the chalk down doesn't fling powdered chalk onto the table, thus lessening the amount that gets on the hands and subsequently on the cue. Good chalk etiquette also lessens chalk on the table cloth, which can damage the cloth over time by the balls rolling and carrying chalk with it as it rolls and cuts microfibers in the cloth, eventually giving it a fuzzy feel. Basically it will prolong the life of the pool table as well. To clean the shaft after it has been stained, use a very slightly damp cloth/tissue and wipe it down and then dry it right away. That should remove surface stains, but if the stains have gone untaken-cared of for a long time, then one may need to use very fine sandpaper and/or steel wool. This will actually remove a tiny layer on the shaft and get rid of the stain, but it will also open up the pores in the wood of the shaft to be more susceptible to future staining or damage, which is why one should burnish the wood to close up the pores. This is a home remedy, and is not as good as a professional cleanup on a cue lathe. These methods are also good for regaining the smoothness lost from dirty hands, chalk, and dirt buildup on the shaft. Another way to keep the shaft clean is to keep the hands clean by washing them frequently, since hands usually get sweaty after playing for a long period of time. Some players like to bring a towel with them to tournaments, allowing for them to wipe their hands as well as wipe down their cue; tissues and napkins work just as well if they are clean.

Joints

Joints are sometimes not perfectly sealed and can get moisture in the wood if it is exposed. In humid areas with large temperature changes, this can ruin the joints and thus the cue itself. To protect the joints, one can purchase a cue case or joint protectors that cover the joints for added protection. Joints are also a frequent place where grease is attracted, especially in brass versions. To remove this grease, fine wool wire can be used (grade 0-0).

Butt

The butt end of the cue requires the least amount of maintenance, since usually it isn't touched too much except for the wrap. A quick wipedown with a slightly damp cloth on the areas with a wood finish (not on the wrap) and a dry wipedown should get rid of any dirt, oil, or fingerprints. For the wrap, if the cue has one, it may smell or become loose. The smell is from wherever one plays as well as sweaty or dirty hands. There is no real way to wash it since it is on the cue, but can be replaced it if it gets too bad. As with the other maintenance issues, prevention is better than replacement of a part of the cue. Certain materials for the wrap fair better than others. For instance since Irish Linen gets stronger as it gets wet, it won't loosen like other wraps will.

Rattling butts are normally due to bad construction and there is nothing can be done about it besides live with it. It shouldn't affect gameplay except psychologically, and one can always intimidate other players by saying one is going to beat them with "The Shaky Stick".

Preventing the loss of bumper is easy; don't play around with them and they shouldn't come loose; if they do, just tighten them up again, since they are an essential part of the cue.

History

2007-11-28T23:45:00.000+07:00

Outside the cue sports industry, pocket billiards is almost exclusively referred to as "pool," due to a perhaps unfortunate association with the "poolrooms" where gamblers "pooled" their money to bet remotely ("off-track") on horse races. Because these venues often provided billiard tables, the term "pool" became synonymous with billiards, and though the original "pool" game was played on a pocketless table, the name stuck to pocket billiards as it gained in popularity. Though the traditional view of billiards as a refined and noble pastime did not blend well with the low-class connotations of gambling, the billiards industry's attempts to distance itself from the term "pool" beginning in the late 19th century were largely unsuccessful.

There are hundreds of pocket billiards games. Some of the more well known include eight-ball, nine-ball, straight pool, and one-pocket. The game of snooker is played on a table with pockets but is considered to be its own cue sport discipline and is governed internationally by the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association/World Snooker Association (professional) and International Billiards and Snooker Federation (amateur). There are also hybrid games combining aspects of both pocket and carom billiards, such as English billiards, American four-ball billiards, cowboy pool and bottle pool.

Pocket billiards is more popular than carom billiards in most countries of the world.[citation needed] Carom billiard games thrive in Asia, Europe and Latin America, but pool (especially in the form of nine-ball and eight-ball) and snooker are gradually taking over as the most widely played cue games.[citation needed]

As a competitive sport, pocket billiards is governed internationally by the World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA), which has national affiliates such as the US Billiard Congress of America (BCA), and which represents pocket billiards in the World Confederation of Billiard Sports which in turn represents all forms of cue sports in the International Olympic Committee.

Pocket Billiard

2007-11-28T23:40:00.000+07:00

Pocket billiards, most commonly referred to as pool, is the general term for a family of games played on a specific class of billiards table, having 6 receptacles called pockets (or "holes") along the rails, in which balls are deposited as the main goal of play. Cue sports that are played on pocketless tables are generally referred to as carom billiards.